"There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation. One is by the sword. The other is by debt." - John Adams ($12 trillion and counting...)

1) Here's a little trick I've used many times over the years but had forgotten to tell
you about. 'Don't think I ever mentioned it before, and it's been a real timesaver
for me.

It had been a while since I used it, but it saved me a bunch of time and hassle again
recently on an older Maytag 'Dependable Care' washer, which reminded me that I
should share it with you.

When dealing with the heavy vertical springs used in some brands of top load washers,
there's a simple way to 'unload' their tension to work on the machine's snubber area,
using steel electrical 'handy boxes'. These are the surface mount boxes normally used
to mount receptacles and switches onto a wall.

By tilting a washer's tub away from it, stretching the spring, then inserting a box into
its coil, the spring will remain stretched and can easily be unhooked.

If you break or cut off the screw tabs on the top and bottom of a box, it can be inserted
into a spring either vertically or horizontally, making it even handier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've carried the same 3 of these modified 'handyboxes' in my truck for many years (that's
why they look so ratty!), and have used them a lot. There've been just a few times I when
wished for 5 rather than just 3, mostly on some of the older Speed Queen and Maycor/
Admiral machines, but 3 will usually suffice.
 

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3) I've been seeing a lot of front load washers lately that won't drain, and/or 'throw' an error
code, then refuse to continue working. Some common error codes, varying among brands,
are 'F/02', 'F21', '07',  '01', etc. The good news is, this one's usually a clog in the drain system,
and is pretty easy to fix yourself.

Regardless which error code, if any, your machine might display, the first thing to check is
the drain system, specifically the pump and sump area.

Most of these are located right in front, behind a bottom access panel - in Whirlpool and
most Frigidaire designs, at least - so you won't need to move the washer to check it.

There are usually 3 screws holding that bottom panel on, right down at the floor. I use a small
wedge block to prop the washer front up a bit to make it easier to get to these screws, then
pull off the front panel.

Hold your wet-vac hose tightly against the end of the drain hose and run it for 15 seconds or
so, in case it's not a total clog, to pull as much water out of the sump/filter as possible before
removing the access cover or hoses. And keep it handy to catch the water left in the sump
area. 

A shallow pan or several large towels can also be used to catch any water left in the sump (as
you know, I'm a wet-vac 'fanatic' because they're so fast and handy.)

It's amazing how much pocket debris, change, and lint gets caught in one of these traps with
a washer still able to function. I regularly see them totally packed with lint and debris, even
when they haven't yet 'thrown' a code or started to cause any obvious trouble.

Check your owner's manual for the presence of a 'cleanable' trap in your model. I recommend
doing this little chore every year, and while you're down there, also taking a peek inside your
dryer for lint buildup. It just might save you an expensive service call later.

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