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How to replace the 'Direct-Drive' 
coupler, part # 285753 & # 285753A used in Whirlpool-made top load washers 
(Whirlpool, Kenmore, Estate, Roper, and Kitchenaid)

[Printer-Friendly Version of this article]

285753 Whirlpool/Kenmore washer drive coupler

1) Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that must be pried off. On newer models, they’re on the back of the console). Rotate the console fwd, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way if the washer’s away from the wall far enough.

2) Unplug the white lid switch plug and pry up the 2 large clips that hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.

2a) On models with 'triple dispensers' for detergent, bleach, and fabric softener, there are 3 small hoses, usually under a plastic cover that swings aside, that have to be removed before taking off the cabinet. Don't forget to reconnect them when putting it back together!

3) Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it’ll unhook from the retainers on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (not as heavy as it sounds!)

4) Pry the two clips off the pump and pull it off the motor shaft. Push it aside, leaving the hoses attached. (Note: If there’s any water staining around the pump drive area, now’s a great time to replace it, because it’s been leaking! Most common pump is part #3363394 – we usually have them on sale on Ebay!)

5) Remove the motor harness plug, and capacitor wires (if used). Remove the 2 shipping screws from the 2 large clips that hold the motor and pry them off, bottom one first, then tilt the motor down and remove.

6) Pry the round, white plastic coupler pieces off both the motor shaft and gear case and discard. (If the gear case section is really tight, this’ll be easier if you remove the motor mounting plate by removing its 2 bolts). You’ll probably find the rubber portion of the original coupler badly worn, and one or more of the plastic drive pegs broken off.

7) Using the large, female end of a 3/8" ratchet extension and a hammer, gently tap the new triangular plastic coupler sections onto motor and gear case until they're flush with the end of each shaft.

Before proceeding, lube the brake to prevent lockup. Takes only a minute, but can prevent a ton of problems. I've seen violent brake lockup ruin a brand new coupler in only two loads! Here's how: DD washer brake lube

8) Put the rubber portion on the gear case, and align it with one of its holes at the 12:00 position. Turn the motor to match, and carefully (trying not to rotate the motor shaft), push the motor back into place. This may take a couple of tries, because it’s easy for the motor to rotate out of position as you reinstall it. Supporting it in place with one hand (a block of wood helps here), snap the top clip on to hang it, then the bottom clip. Reinstall the 2 screws through these clips.

9) Reinstall the motor harness plug and capacitor wires, if used (they plug back on either way). Put a light coating of Vaseline on the motor shaft and push the pump back on, rotating the motor slightly if necessary by reaching back and turning it by the coupler. Reinstall the pump clips.

10) Open the cabinet lid, and, looking down through the lid opening, hook the cabinet front under the washer base while keeping the cabinet tilted slightly forward. Rest your foot at the cabinet bottom to hold it in place, and tip it back down onto the base. Snap the 2 cabinet clips back into place, and look down the back corners to ensure there are no gaps between the cabinet and back panel where they meet at the bottom. If one side’s gapped, it means the rear, bottom retainer on that side isn’t hooked. Pop the clip on that side, tilt forward slightly, and push the side down into place. Then reinstall the clip.

11) Plug the lid switch and power plugs back in, rotate the console back down, reinstall its retaining screws, and pat yourself on the back! You just saved at least $75.00!

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