The DRSNews
December 2008
Merry CHRISTmas! *

Published by subscription only, by Dave’s Repair Service
©2008 All Rights Reserved

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friends!

You may have noticed the absence of a November issue this year.
Sorry about that! The 'busyness demon' struck again!

In this issue:

1) A Website Full of Cool Vintage Christmas 'Wishbook' Catalogs
2) How to Stop That Oil Leak From Under Your Whirlpool Washer
3) Another Address for Your Christmas Card List
 

1) Here's a nice collection of old Christmas catalogs, viewable right
on the website. Direct scans from 1940 to 1986, Sears, Spiegel's,
Wards, and other catalogs are posted here, with 'thumbnails' of their
pages at the bottom of each. It's great fun to page through these!

Some of the old appliance and firearms prices make me want to laugh
and cry at the same time! http://www.wishbookweb.com/

2) When you find oil underneath your Whirlpool - built top-load washer,
the fix is actually not that tough.

Amazingly, it's been almost a year ago already, back in January, since
we talked about rebuilding an ailing Whirlpool-built washer's direct-drive
gearcase. I briefly mentioned then that the input shaft seal, behind the
drive coupler, should be replaced whenever the gearcase is rebuilt.

I've been wanting to expand on replacing that troublesome little seal,
so we'll do that in this issue, because I see it leaking a lot. I didn't mean
to leave you with the impression that it could only replaced by tearing the
gearcase apart. It can easily be changed with the gearcase left mounted
in the machine.

I start by sliding the washer out so that it's rear edge is even with the
front edge of the dryer. Then pull the cabinet off and set it aside. Tip
the washer back - you may have to remove the drain hose from the
standpipe - and lean it against the wall.

Remove the pump by prying off its two clips and pulling it straight off.
Swing it aside, leaving its hoses attached. I use an 'S' hook slipped
through one of the hose clamp loops and hooked into the hole in the
left base leg to keep the pump out of my way.

Remove the two motor shipping screws, pry off its mounting clips,
unplug its wiring, and ease the motor to the floor.

Pry the motor coupler off the gearcase shaft. If the washer's been
leaking for very long, it'll most likely fall off in your hand (and should
be replaced).

The seal is pressed into the gearcase casting, and is easy to remove
using a self-drilling sheet metal screw about an inch long. Use a
cordless screwdriver or drill to run the screw into the outer metal
area of the seal, at 2:00 or 7:00, and the screw will force the seal
out easily.

Because the washer's tipped back, there's no worry about oil leakage
from the shaft with the seal out, but don't leave the washer tipped
back too long or it can start to leak a small amount from the tiny vent
hole on the gearcase top cover.

Clean the seal recess, and tap the new seal (part # 285352) in place
using a 3/4'' deep socket and hammer, closed side out, until it seats.

That's it! Tap a new drive coupler into place in the shaft, reassemble
the machine, and enjoy an oil-free floor again!