1) Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the
console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that
must be pried off. On newer models, they’re on the back of the console).
Rotate the console fwd, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way
if the washer’s away from the wall far enough.
2) Unplug the white lid switch plug and pry up the 2 large clips that
hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.
2a) On models with 'triple dispensers' for detergent, bleach, and
fabric softener, there are 3 small hoses, usually under a plastic cover that
swings aside, that have to be removed before taking off the cabinet. Don't
forget to reconnect them when putting it back together!
3) Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it’ll unhook from the retainers
on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (not as heavy as it sounds!)
4) Pry the two clips off the pump and pull it off the motor shaft. Push
it aside, leaving the hoses attached. (Note: If there’s any water staining
around the pump drive area, now’s a great time to replace it, because it’s
been leaking! Most common pump is part #3363394 – we usually have them on
sale on Ebay!)
5) Remove the motor harness plug, and capacitor wires (if used). Remove
the 2 shipping screws from the 2 large clips that hold the motor and pry
them off, bottom one first, then tilt the motor down and remove.
6) Pry the round, white plastic coupler pieces off both the motor shaft
and gear case and discard. (If the gear case section is really tight, this’ll
be easier if you remove the motor mounting plate by removing its 2 bolts).
You’ll probably find the rubber portion of the original coupler badly
worn, and one or more of the plastic drive pegs broken off.
7) Using the large, female end of a 3/8" ratchet extension and a
hammer, gently tap the new triangular plastic coupler sections onto motor
and gear case until they're flush with the end of each shaft.
Before proceeding, lube the brake to prevent
lockup. Takes only a minute, but can prevent a ton of problems. I've seen
violent brake lockup ruin a brand new coupler in only two loads! Here's how:
DD washer brake lube
8) Put the rubber portion on the gear case, and align it with one of its
holes at the 12:00 position. Turn the motor to match, and carefully (trying
not to rotate the motor shaft), push the motor back into place. This may
take a couple of tries, because it’s easy for the motor to rotate out of
position as you reinstall it. Supporting it in place with one hand (a block
of wood helps here), snap the
top clip on to hang it, then the bottom clip. Reinstall the 2 screws through
these clips.
9) Reinstall the motor harness plug and capacitor wires, if used (they
plug back on either way). Put a light coating of Vaseline on the motor shaft and push the pump
back on, rotating the motor slightly if necessary by reaching back and
turning it by the coupler. Reinstall the pump clips.
10) Open the cabinet lid, and, looking down through the lid opening, hook
the cabinet front under the washer base while keeping the cabinet tilted
slightly forward. Rest your foot at the cabinet bottom to hold it in place,
and tip it back down onto the base. Snap the 2 cabinet clips back into
place, and look down the back corners to ensure there are no gaps between
the cabinet and back panel where they meet at the bottom. If one side’s
gapped, it means the rear, bottom retainer on that side isn’t hooked. Pop
the clip on that side, tilt forward slightly, and push the side down into
place. Then reinstall the clip.
11) Plug the lid switch and power plugs back in, rotate the console back
down, reinstall its retaining screws, and pat yourself on the back! You just
saved at least $75.00!
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Many Thanks! - Dave
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